“New York-style” food is a big thing here. It keeps showing up in restaurant reviews and menu descriptions — and not just for the bagel-with-shmear places that are all over the place. Every time I find myself in a culinary supply shop or cookbook store (I know, I keep telling myself that I don’t have room in my luggage for any books or gear, but it doesn’t hurt to just look around a little…) I find a section of New York cookbooks. Sometimes they are cross-marketed with things like plastic ketchup and mustard bottles, for that authentic USA ambiance.
I know, I’m in no position to chuckle. We Americans have been obsessed with la cuisine française for generations, and bastardizing it (not always in a bad way) for about as long. Still, it amuses me to open up a cookbook and see recipes for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, or drip coffee.
I’m not kidding about either of those.
It’s not all PB&Js, of course. Mark Grossman’s New York, les recettes culte (New York Cult Recipes) and Un goûter à New York (A taste of New York) have solid recipes for all the NYC standards, from bagels, cheesecake, and hash browns to bialys, latkes, and pork buns.
Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m heading down to the pâtisserie for some macarons.
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